Mastec is on it. Relatively easy test is "noid light" on one injector connector while engine is cranked for a couple of seconds. Blinking light means injectors are pulsing, and no problem with ignition circuit, no blinking light means problem with ignition circuit, not fuel system. Only way to accurately test fuel system is to test the fuel pressure, which is a real pain on TBI. You can borrow the tools free from autozone, as long as you can afford the deposit, which you will get back. You obviously have spark, or it would not start with gas poured in it. It's either a fuel or ignition (not spark, just the poriton that tells the ECM the engine is turning over) problem. Edit: By the way, on a GM this vintage, the fuel pump will only run for 2 seconds when key is turned to run. If you immediately turn it off and back on, the pump will NOT run again. I do not know exactly how long the timer in the ECM for fuel pump prime takes to reset, but if the pump does not make noise when you turn it back to run, you have not waited long enough, and the pump is not working. And yes, I am intimately familiar with GM OBD1 fuel injection.
1. Just changed distributor leads coil in car and now its puffing smoke like crazy out the exhaust?
If you have not tried it yet, pour a can of intake or fuel system cleaner into the gas tank. BG products number 44K is the industry standard. Other brands are Chevron Techron. You are probably burning off all the accumulated carbon etc. on your valves. If not, then your valve stem seals or piston oil control rings are worn out. The valve stem seals need replacing. The oil control ring problem can be mitigated with a can of Restore poured into the crankcase when you perform the next oil change. Please do not just add the Restore into your crankcase without monitoring the oil level in order to avoid an overfilled crankcase. That alone can cause the problems you are experiencing. Good Luck
2. what is 4 stroke d i engine in desilel fuel system ?
Indirect injection is where a large, low pressure (1400-1800 psi) stream of fuel is injected into the combustion chamber, squirts into a "power cell on the opposite side of the chamber and it then squirts back into the chamber. Direct injection is where multiple streams of higher pressure fuel (2400-3000 psi) is injected directly into the combustion chamber. Direct injection makes starting easier and is usually more fuel effecient but tends to be noiser than indirect injection.
3. Would flushing the fuel system fix a broken car AC unit?
flushing has nothing to do with your AC, just coincidence
4. How do I clean rust from fuel system parts?
Hi Dude - I got an 85! The fuel cap is Chrome - use 00 steel wool and WD40 to remove rust without scratching what is left of chrome - fuel lever is chrome too but may be chrome over plastic = time to get a new one
5. Help with old motorcycle please?
Montessa is good rep for old 2 stroke- remove spark plugs carefully- the 2 plugs were a early anti fouling measure for 2 strokes with premix systems- switch lead to different plug if sputtering. one high speed 'cold' plug, one low speed hotter plug common in trials cycles.. Wd40, ATF/dextron with acetone 50/50 is the classic anti rust, free the old stored engines stuck pistons mix. Fuel system will need cleaning while cylinder is soaking in cleaner ATF/engine oil/Whatever. start from fuel tank, go to fuel valve/petcock, check or replace fuel lines and then get to carb and there you may get lucky as the old Amals and Bings were relatively simple. slide valve needle jets can be cleaned with cutting torch cleaners and the idle jets are similar. Floats and needle seats- likely the old metal floats with basic brass needle and can be cleaned by hand, crocus cloth or valve lapping compound on a cloth. Can of Gumout may be all needed- if worse case the small gunk tank. Parts may need to be ordered from a vintage shop- but Amals have few basic parts and are around- just need to get right size metric or English - likely Metric. Exhaust port is a area to be serviced- de carbonize is the term- basic scrape the buildup of carbon/crud around edge of port in cylinder and some from piston top. Have fun, maybe see you at vintage rally
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